Anacortes, Washington, USA
A working waterfront at its best
Authored / Pictures by: Martin Leduc, 2008
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Strolling through Anacortes in North West Washington state, in the United States, is always a treat. This beautiful town host many festivals and cultural activities grounded on its well preserved heritage, strongly influenced by the sea.
History
Until its initial European discovery by the Spanish explorer Carrasco in 1790, the Samish and Swinomish aboriginals were the original inhabitants of what is now Fidalgo Island on which Anacortes is situated. Traders, trappers made their mark on the area until it was settled by a permanent white settlement in the 1850's of mostly farmers and hunters. Anacortes was incorporated in 1891, and claimed 936 inhabitants in 1893. The town boomed shortly after, with the wide expectation that the city would be the pacific terminus of an intercontinental railroad, but the railroad went bankrupt and the town suffered greatly. 1890s was also the beginning of the salmon canning and codfish curing industries. By 1915, 14 plants processed the seas' bounty, the last cannery closed in late 1990. The second major industry to the area, starting in the 1880's, were and somewhat continue to be, lumber mills. In the 1960s the town had a vibrant forest industry, a pulp mill, plywood mill, and shingle mill were in operation. In keeping with its industrious roots the town also had a a glass factory, a brick factory and of course boat building. The oil refineries of Shell and Texaco were built just outside of town on March Point, in the 1950's and continue operating to this day.
Every where you look in this city, is a reminder that you are very near the ocean and all its bounty, past and present. Today’s Anacortes, with its population of just over 16,000 inhabitants, continues to have a vibrant and diverse working maritime waterfront and a healthy social program. Every year an estimate 75,000 visitors take part in the city's many festivals and cultural events.
Ship builder and a bustling port
At the heart of this town is the Port of Anacortes probably the single largest entity in town, and responsible for the extensive array of maritime venture in the area. On part of the port's land, sits the Dakota Creek Shipyard, established in Anacortes in 1977. Intertwined so easily into the social fabric of this town, one has to wonder how they ever manage to marry the lot so finely. Nestled at the bottom of Commercial Street, its surrounding peppered with trendy restaurants, fine homes and groovy antique stores, several commercial fishing vessels tower up from the landscape. "On the ways" today, at Dakota Creek, are the large fishing boats Auriga and Aurora, up for their surveys and bottom paint, with workers tending to them like bees.
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MV Grant Candies
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All over the sprawling yard, workers are piecing together multiple modules for a second, in a series of three, 89 meter (285 foot) oil services ship for Otto Candies. Buoyed by the success of the nearly completed Grant Candies sitting at the fit out dock, the largest ship built at Dakota Creek. The bow section is being welded on in one area, next to it, a mid body section, further down the yard the stacks are coming together, and yet another section is being fabricated in the covered shop across the street. A worker tells me that they have five years of work. He states that Otto Candies has options for 2 more ice strengthened platform supply ships. Not to mention that Crowley has two firm orders for 12,168 kW Articulated Tug Barge (ATB) tugs. He his excited that the yard is going to grow, a new dry-dock is in the works once regulatory approval goes through.
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Next door, at Port of Anacortes’ pier 1, just south of Dakota Creek’s floating dry-dock where workers are "blasting" a barge, fishermen are busy readying their boats for the upcoming season which opens in mid June. Several large fishing boats are in the shipyard, but even more are alongside, undergoing refurbishment. Nearby are the large fish processing plants of Trident Seafoods, Sugiyo and Seabear Smokehouse.
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Further down the pier at the port, Crowley’s 129 foot escort tug Response, awaits its next assignment. The tug is massive and quite capable looking with a fine hull, and some serious firer fighting capabilities. I ask if the tug is new because of the fine shape she is in, I am surprised to find out that she's already five years old. In the course of my discussion with the deckhand, I discover that the person kneeling down on deck, meticulously painting the underside of the railing is the master; I quickly appreciate the pride one takes in his work and why this tug looks so smart.
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Moored behind the Response is the 3,579 kW Crowley tug, Chief. She’s more the size I am use to seeing on the coast. The 3,579 kW Voith Schneider propelled tractor tug is, no doubt, awaiting berthing duties at the various port facilities, or at one of the two major oil refineries just outside town.
| From Crowley's Website... | |||||||
Crowley Response Class Tug
The Response - Class tug is a state of the art escort tug. The hull design is based on the lines of the Boxer owned by Bukser og Berging of Oslo, Norway. The vessel is capable of providing in excess of 320,000 pounds of steering or braking force and can safely escort vessels at speeds over 12 knots. The key elements of the design are the hull and skeg lines, the Voith / Caterpillar propulsion package, and the Markey hawser winch. Together, these make for a easily controlled vessel capable of applying and maintaining high forces to control a disabled vessel. The Response - Class tug is a Class 1 firefighting vessel, capable of throwing over 13,000 gallons of water per minute a distance of 400 feet. |
Crowley Pacific Northwest Fleet Response 7,200 Voith Schneider |
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On the other side of the shipyard, the 27,000 dwt Cosco bulk carrier, Yichanghai, loads Petcoke from the nearby Texaco refinery, at the Port of Anacortes Pier 2. A constant parade of hopper trucks roll past me and discharge their cargo, loaded onto the ship by ship loader and conveyors. Stevedores from Metropolitan Stevedore Company supervise and load the cargo onboard the 1997 built, Panamanian flagged ship. The Third Mate on the ship states, in broken English, they had a good trip and are headed to India with this load.
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It is a short drive from downtown to the top of Cape Sante lookout, where visitors are treated to superb 300 degree view of Anacortes and Fidalgo Bay. From this vantage point, you can get a good view of the town of Anacortes and the two refineries across the bay. The modern tanker "Polar Endeavour" was departing the bay, my last visit here. This time, I see one tanker offloading at one of the jetties and several pusher tugs and their oil barges, no doubt loaded with refined product destined for distribution all over the west coast of the US and Canada.
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Back in the downtown, and across the street from Port of Anacortes' Pier 1, my guide, Dave, says I must stop by and check out the Marine Supply & Hardware Co. store. He was rightly enthusiastic; all types of fittings nuts, bolts and just about everything, interesting or necessary, to fit out a boat from stem to stern - and then some. The owner, Steve, allows us to take a stroll in the back of the store, which is packed with even more stuff than the front of the store. A wood stove sits idle amidst the tons and tons of fittings and "whachma' callits", fire woods sits ready to burn, just outside the back door next to a pile of recovered "marine treasures"; a strange sight in today's "just in time" world, but fits perfectly in this little town's "treasure house".
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Just a few street north of downtown, on the waterfront, sits the Railway Station of past, now an art center, and a good place to catch a show. Next door is the finely restored steam ship WT Preston, a retired "snag remover", and subject of a past feature on Martin's Marine Engineering Page. Fully restored and hauled up on the beach, she makes a fine addition to a town where history is embraced. The museum ship is open to visitors to discover the life and workings of a steam ship of generations past. Further east, on the northern shore of town, across from Cape Sante, sits the large Cape Sante Boat Haven Marina, part of the Port of Anacortes. The marina has been newly remodelled and is populated by a abundant variety of pleasure craft and mega yachts.
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Further east from the marinas, we find a more commercial feel on the water, with numerous fishing boats tied up, close to a multitude of small boat yards and a fish plant. The non descript, but large building juts out from the landscape and houses Northern Marine yacht works established in 1995. Inside, the yard's 170 workers are busy working on a third version of their 46 meter tri-decker mega yacht, to be delivered in early 2009. Outside the building on the apron, final touches are being put on the Bella Bri for its launch on June 09. I am told the new American owners will keep her in nearby LaConner for the winter, then take her down to Florida later on in the year.
Bella Bri
| Style - Tri-deck motor yacht | |
| Length - 46 meters (151 foot) | |
| Beam - 9.3 meters (30' 9") | |
| Designed by Jonathan Quinn Barnett, with naval architecture by George Roddan | |
| Propulsion - 2x MTU 12V4000 main engines rated at 2,040 kW | |
| Electric Generation - Two 99 kW and one 65 kW generators | |
| Top Speed - 21 knot | |
| Cruise - 18 knot | |
| Range - 4,000 nautical miles |
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I have relatives in the area so I always have something to do down there, but every time, I always set aside a little time to enjoy seeing what Anacortes busy waterfront is up to. Even if you are not into "maritime things" you will find lots of neat stores, great restaurant, hang outs, and a full calendar of events and activities. If that is not enough for you, you can always head south to Whidbey Island, home to Naval Air Station Whidbey Island, which, on a normal day, has a great display of military aircrafts buzzing about. Drop by Deception Pass and the many other parks and historical sites on the island too. Be sure to check out Nichols Brothers in Freeland, another productive ship yard at the southern end of Whidbey Island about one hour drive south from Anacortes.
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